For my second excursion, I chose Fish. I'd like to note that all my reservations were made through OpenTable. This restaurant ranked #1 in their "Fit for Foodies" and it's price range ensured I wouldn't break the bank. In fact, this would be my most inexpensive dinner in Charleston.
This recently expanded restaurant offered alfresco dining and a causal atmosphere. When I arrived, the hostess had to finish a side-conversation with a staff member before greeting me and then did not offer to lay my napkin for me when I was seated. The latter is a minor point, the former is much more irritating.
The interior was decorated with simple white walls and speckled mirrors, wooden tables adorned with black napkins. Decorations were minimized in the Japanese tradition and the staff was in black shirts with black aprons and (ugh) denim jeans. The table setting, with knife and fork laid side by side, reminds me of a NJ diner and I wondered if I'd made a poor selection.
As my menu arrive, I ask my waitress if they offer a tasting menu with wine pairings. She was unsure and excused herself to check (tough to sell something if you don't know you have it). Upon returning she explained a four course "Mercy of the Chef" concept (boy does that need a better name) and we soon got started.
Bread
Steamed buns with Soy/Chili sauce
Impression
I mention the bread for two reasons: First, the soy/chili was really flavorful, much better than butter any day. Second, it was served in a basket lined with faux newspaper. I have no earthly idea why a restaurant would use something like that instead of a folded napkin.
Amuse
Pouched Shrimp with Caramelized Onion and a Mint and Lime Vinaigrette paired with a Virgin Chardonnay
Impression
Food is very flavorful and the wine isn't really on the same level. The pair works, but not very well. When asking about the vinaigrette, the server has to refer to her notes and I'm starting to see why their prices top out at $20-25 per entree.
First Course
Snapper Spring Roll with Ginger Aioli and Chilled Melon Soup paired with 2006 Argentine Malbec
Impression
The wine compliments the roll, not so much the soup. The skewered roll was good but the portion was very small, even for a tasting menu. The soup, quoting directly from my notes, was "bland, warm, and served in a chipped shot glass." It was at this point when the maitre'd came over to pour the proper wine pairing for the course, Finca El Reposo by St. Jeanette from Mendoza, Argentina. It works better with the soup than the first wine, but it's too late to save the course; the roll is long gone and I've had enough soup. This was more like a second amuse than a full course.
Second Course
Steamed Caper Island Clams in White Wine, Kaffir Lime Broth with Shallots, Red and White Onions, Fennel paired with a 2007 Spanish White
Impression
I failed to catch the name of this wine because my server rushed her presentation and, as I said in Part 1, it is a clear sign she was uncomfortable talking about the product. The wine was delightful though, with a subtle nose and smooth flavorful notes ("Good sipping wine" in my notes). The wine perfectly complimented what would be the best dish of the evening. The broth was intense but not overpowering (server again needed to check with kitchen on its contents) and the clams were tender and scrumptious. Really a very nice dish highlighted by the versatility and variety of onions. This portion was too large for a tasting but it compensated for the minuscule first course.
Third Course
Virginia Diver Scallops with Thai Basil Pasta in Red Curry/Coconut Milk Provencal, Red Peppers and Shitake Mushrooms paired with 2007 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Collegiata
Impression
With the two scallops resting on a bed of pasta, what was the need for skewering them together? The scallops were also undersized. The pasta is tasty but perhaps missing sufficient heat. The pairing is nice but overall this is a pretty underwhelming dish. I don't know, but I can see this pasta being used as a catchall platform, perfect for eliminating excess chicken, shrimp, scallops, etc. Nothing wrong with any of those combinations, but it is not exactly sophisticate cuisine (more like a staff meal).
Fourth Course
Creme Fraiche Sorbet with Shizo Syrup, Blueberries
Impression
A great twist on a simple concept. The creme fraiche was subtle but unmistakable and really an interesting idea for sorbet. Unfortunately I mistakenly believed this was an exceptional palette cleanser instead of my dessert course, which speaks to the size of the serving. When that's the only dessert, I expect two scoops instead of just one.
My final bill, before gratuity, was about $44 which I thought was, considering four courses with wine, exceptionally inexpensive. I spoke with the manager and he said their aim was to be more of a 'once a week' place as opposed to 'special occasions only' and I think the price reflects that. I only cautioned that being a casual restaurant does not equate to a lack of focus and excellence by the staff. Closing thoughts:
1. This place is not used to serving a tasting menu. Dishes were over and under sized.
2. Wine list is average.
3. Service was friendly but somewhat amateurish. When being served, the thumb should not come across the plate's rim, it should run along it. Otherwise there is a big finger print and it can appear like the server is sticking their finger in your food.
4. Their prices also reflect their lack of attention to detail. I sat down at a wobbly table and the silverware was spotted; this is basic prep work that was not done. It's the little things that distinguish fine dining experiences.
Service: 5 out of 10
Kitchen: 6 out of 10
Atmosphere: 6 out of 10
Note on rating scale: 10 = perfect, 5 = satisfactory, 0 = intolerable
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