Charleston Grill
Executive Chef: Michelle Weaver (her mentor, her rise)
First, it was Mother's Day and I appreciate that they served more than just brunch. They presented their regular menu, one with four concepts (which can be viewed here). I decided to do a tasting, selecting three dishes and leaving the rest to chef's discretion. They offered three levels of wine pairings and I selected the mid range, which ran $45.
In a brief aside, they offer a live jazz trio Monday through Saturday and a duo on Sunday, which I really enjoyed. Live unobtrusive music offers a richer dining experience. And it is the experience we are after when we see $40 entrees. The difference is service, atmosphere, and attention to detail (and of course, exceptional food).
I got a warm greeting when entering and, when seated, my hostess offered to lay my napkin across my lap (very classy). The silverware and glasses were all spot-free and well polished. The staff's gentleman were clad in white and black with neckties and the ladies in all black. At the menu's listed prices, I'd like to see jackets, but that's just me. I settled in with the dark wood paneling and classic interior, listening to a live guitar and fiddle combo.
Amuse
Goat Cheese Mousse with Blackberry and Blueberry Compote, Shallots, Tarragon on Crostini.
Impression
Impression
The crostini was cut too thin to support the mousse but still added enough crunch to a very flavorful mousse. The compote added just the right sweetness. We're definitely off to a good start with that bite.
First Course (my choice)
Nantucket Bay Scallop Ceviche with Yuzu, Vanilla, Apple, Mint, Thai Basil paired with a Riesling from Luxembourg
Impression
They did not serve me Nantucket Bay scallops. That may be a small point (the diver scallops were perfectly fine) but I expect to be served what I order. The yuzu made the scallops pop while the subtle seasoning made for a nice medley of flavor. It was served in a shallow trough which I found somewhat unbecoming. I got the impression my server was confused on the exact marinade and seemed anxious to get away from the table when serving the wine (a sure sign she was uncomfortable talking about it). Otherwise it was a very lovely dish, complimented nicely by a pairing with similar notes. I was pleased.
Second Course (my choice)
Charleston Grill Crab Cake with Creek Shrimp, Lime Tomato Dill Vinaigrette paired with Millton Chenin Blanc 2006
Impression
Now this is fine Charleston cuisine. The crab cake was perfectly and delicately cooked and the shrimp were tender and delicious. The vinaigrette was very mild, befitting the dish, though I could have liked it a bit more aggressiveness. The dish was served with halved red and yellow cherry tomatoes; this seemed more aesthetic than additive. The tomatoes were mushy and seriously detracted from the other components when eaten together. The pairing seemed more generic than well thought out, but it didn't hinder an excellent dish.
Third Course
Foie Gras and Waffles with a Huckleberry Port Reduction, Maple Whipped Cream paired with Bussola Recioto 2003
Impression
The Bussola is a sweet wine with a big nose and its decadence complimented my favorite indulgence, foie gras. The presentation was clever as the waffles added great texture to contrast with the rich foie. The maple whipped cream was tasted more like regular whipped cream to me and it dissolved rather abruptly so I didn't have much time to taste it. The berry compote could have been a bit sweeter (though the port took care of the sweet finish) and completed the breakfast spin. Overall, one of the more playful and delicious presentations of a fine dining staple.
Fourth Course (my choice)
Duck Confit and Dirty Grits with Baby Turnips, Bacon Sage Gravy paired with 2007 Vernas
Impression
The last thing I expected from duck confit is tough meat. The turnips added a nice earthiness and the grits were excellent and classic. This is potentially a signature Southern dish with some fine tuning and a bit more flavor. Wine pairing was nice and light, contrasting with the heaviness of the dish. It was without overly aggressive fruit which would have detracted from the great earthy flavors in the dish. A nice pairing, I just wish that meat wasn't stringy. (Unfortunately, this would not be the last time I was served poorly cooked duck in Charleston, but that's for another time...)
Fifth Course
Grilled Aged Lamb Chops with Spring Vegetables, Lemon Rosemary Jus with 2001 Brunello di Montalcino
Impression
It was a beautiful, think chop with crisp, colorful seasonal vegetables and a flavorful rosemary reduction. The chop was perhaps a bit fatty and the reduction was intense, possibly overpowering with a heavy hand, but everything worked well together. This is more of an entree dish than tasting menu (especially as you cruise into your fifth course) but I was glad to eat it. Overall, it was really just classic American cuisine, well cooked and well seasoned.
Pre-Dessert
Coconut Cake with Cream Cheese Icing and Pineapple Salsa
Impression
Explosion of flavor and I kind of wish it was a full portion. Brief aside, I'm getting a little tired of seeing diced fruit called salsa.
First Dessert
Strawberry Mousse, Lemon Ginger Broth, Poppy and Sesame Seed Tuile with a white carbonated Italian dessert wine
Impression
The presentation, highlighted by a strawberry gelee, was probably better than the flavor. The mousse was fine with the lemon, cumin broth. The tuile added some nice texture. It was an inoffensive, pedestrian kind of dessert you'd suggest to someone who'd already ordered a green salad and chicken. Nothing wrong with the dessert, but nothing to write home about either.
Second Dessert
Chocolate Trio: Bittersweet Chocolate Cake, Milk Chocolate Ganache, White Chocolate Ice Cream Sandwich with Moon Winery Port
Impression
The cake was nothing special, a small chocolate cake like we've all eaten a million times. Make it a molten chocolate cake and at least there would be some defining aspect. The ganache was great; really rich and smooth. I could have used two more scoops of it. The mini ice cream sandwich was certainly big enough to require a cut, but too hard. I then picked it up to find chocolate sauce holding it in place on the plate, which then transferred onto my fingers. A simple problem rectified by thawing the sandwich a bit or 86ing the sauce underneath. Either way, that's for a chef to worry about before my fingers are sticky.
My meal was finished with some petifores and a bill totalling about $150, not including gratuity. My last thoughts are these:
1. The back waiters are under trained and don't know enough about the food they are serving. They should know everything on the plate and how it was prepared.
2. The wine list is solid and the sommelier was impressive, with an eye for appropriateness over selling price.
3. There was some table side saucing but that's almost a cop out. I like some sort of table side service, not just pouring sauce.
4. Of the three choices I made, I thought two didn't live up to my expectations, mainly for technical reasons.
5. With the level of food and service I received, I think the price was about right. Despite my nitpicking, the service, food and wine were definitely upper echelon. I recommend this experience.
Service: 7 out of 10
Kitchen: 8 out of 10
Pastry: 6 out of 10
Atmosphere: 8 out of 10
Note: I decided against stars because they seem to be eternally increasing. 3 star Michelin is much different from some '5 star' corner pub with a wing special.
No comments:
Post a Comment