Dining in Charleston: Cru Cafe

Cru Cafe
Executive Chef: John Zucker (info)

With food ranked by review sites rivaling the best in Charleston, my visit to Cru Cafe had me excited. It resides in what appears to be a former residence and has the feel of a mom and pop country-inn eatery. The dining room is small and a full room feels more like a family gathering than a private evening. Some table setting issues added to the homely feel (not in a good way); candles were unlit, silverware was not polished, no butter knife or wine glass. They did/do not offer a tasting menu so I ordered a bottle of 2005 Lincourt Syrah from Santa Barbara to accompany my meal and dove in...

First Course
Sausage Gumbo
Impression
Not quite New Orleans, but damn good and a testament to low country cooking. The gumbo had depth of flavor and revealed beautiful color after dug into with a spoon. I say after because when served, the dark roux dominated my eye and a bit of micro green or parsley garnish would have gone a long way. In any case, the flavor was definitely there and I really enjoyed this Southern specialty. It was one of those dishes you unconsciously eat fast because it's so good.

Second Course
Grilled Swordfish over Four Cheese Grits with Shoe-String Fried Onions
Impression
I really thought I was going to hit a home run when I ordered this entree. Every element of this dish is something I really enjoy eating. Despite being without the silverware needed (rather, any whatsoever) when it was served, I was still eager upon its arrival. Unfortunately the dish failed in conception and execution, a lethal combination that ruined my plate. The fish was steamrolled by an overly heavy tazo and smoked ham gravy. The onions were cold and soggy; they seemed unnecessary due to poor execution but if they were crispy they would add some texture to the dish. The entire presentation lacked color, functionality or imagination. Fried onions over fish over grits is not exactly a picturesque scene. The grits were good but I was really, really disappointed with this course.

Third Course
Cheesecake with Fresh Strawberries, Strawberry Syrup
Impression
After a hit and a miss with Southern dishes, I decided to measure their cheesecake against my infinite encounters (I reside in the NY/NJ metro area). Side note: the candle on my table was finally lit. The cake was definitely lighter than what I'm used to, but that was not a bad thing. Though not as rich, the texture was still amazingly creamy. The strawberries were an appropriately simple adjunct though, again, a little garnish would have helped. Aside from the elbow in my face when it was served, I thought this well known dessert outperformed. I should have skipped the espresso I had with it, which was served with an improperly cut lemon twist.

The food was about $45 and wine was just over $40. Not cheap, but not absurd. I definitely want better service at that price though. Closing thoughts:
1. The waitress was in (ugh) shorts and a t-shirt. The back waiter was also in shorts. Unless I'm at Hooters, I don't want to be served by anyone in shorts.
2. There was a simple lack of color and presentation (at least there wasn't any pointless deconstruction).
3. Whether it's polishing the silverware or lighting the candles, the prep work that distinguishes restaurants from one another, isn't getting done at Cru Cafe.
4. My waitress was clearly skilled, well versed in the cuisine and perfect in her wine service. But...
5. For such a small place, the entire staff was surprisingly inattentive to detail. Water glasses went unfilled, food was served with too many thumbs but without silverware, bread stayed on the table through dessert, and on and on.

If your a local, you may enjoy frequenting this humble joint. If your into a gratuitous, hearty style of service, this might be your restaurant (I prefer polished, highly attentive service). The food might have won the day if my entree was just properly cooked. Locals who fall into the previously mention categories should try Cru Cafe; out of town visitors can definitely find a better experience.

Service: 2 out of 10
Kitchen: 4 out of 10
Atmosphere: 5 out of 10

Dining in Charleston: Fish

Fish

Executive Chef: Nico Romo (info)

For my second excursion, I chose Fish. I'd like to note that all my reservations were made through OpenTable. This restaurant ranked #1 in their "Fit for Foodies" and it's price range ensured I wouldn't break the bank. In fact, this would be my most inexpensive dinner in Charleston.

This recently expanded restaurant offered alfresco dining and a causal atmosphere. When I arrived, the hostess had to finish a side-conversation with a staff member before greeting me and then did not offer to lay my napkin for me when I was seated. The latter is a minor point, the former is much more irritating.

The interior was decorated with simple white walls and speckled mirrors, wooden tables adorned with black napkins. Decorations were minimized in the Japanese tradition and the staff was in black shirts with black aprons and (ugh) denim jeans. The table setting, with knife and fork laid side by side, reminds me of a NJ diner and I wondered if I'd made a poor selection.

As my menu arrive, I ask my waitress if they offer a tasting menu with wine pairings. She was unsure and excused herself to check (tough to sell something if you don't know you have it). Upon returning she explained a four course "Mercy of the Chef" concept (boy does that need a better name) and we soon got started.

Bread

Steamed buns with Soy/Chili sauce

Impression

I mention the bread for two reasons: First, the soy/chili was really flavorful, much better than butter any day. Second, it was served in a basket lined with faux newspaper. I have no earthly idea why a restaurant would use something like that instead of a folded napkin.

Amuse

Pouched Shrimp with Caramelized Onion and a Mint and Lime Vinaigrette paired with a Virgin Chardonnay

Impression

Food is very flavorful and the wine isn't really on the same level. The pair works, but not very well. When asking about the vinaigrette, the server has to refer to her notes and I'm starting to see why their prices top out at $20-25 per entree.

First Course

Snapper Spring Roll with Ginger Aioli and Chilled Melon Soup paired with 2006 Argentine Malbec

Impression

The wine compliments the roll, not so much the soup. The skewered roll was good but the portion was very small, even for a tasting menu. The soup, quoting directly from my notes, was "bland, warm, and served in a chipped shot glass." It was at this point when the maitre'd came over to pour the proper wine pairing for the course, Finca El Reposo by St. Jeanette from Mendoza, Argentina. It works better with the soup than the first wine, but it's too late to save the course; the roll is long gone and I've had enough soup. This was more like a second amuse than a full course.

Second Course

Steamed Caper Island Clams in White Wine, Kaffir Lime Broth with Shallots, Red and White Onions, Fennel paired with a 2007 Spanish White

Impression

I failed to catch the name of this wine because my server rushed her presentation and, as I said in Part 1, it is a clear sign she was uncomfortable talking about the product. The wine was delightful though, with a subtle nose and smooth flavorful notes ("Good sipping wine" in my notes). The wine perfectly complimented what would be the best dish of the evening. The broth was intense but not overpowering (server again needed to check with kitchen on its contents) and the clams were tender and scrumptious. Really a very nice dish highlighted by the versatility and variety of onions. This portion was too large for a tasting but it compensated for the minuscule first course.

Third Course

Virginia Diver Scallops with Thai Basil Pasta in Red Curry/Coconut Milk Provencal, Red Peppers and Shitake Mushrooms paired with 2007 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Collegiata

Impression

With the two scallops resting on a bed of pasta, what was the need for skewering them together? The scallops were also undersized. The pasta is tasty but perhaps missing sufficient heat. The pairing is nice but overall this is a pretty underwhelming dish. I don't know, but I can see this pasta being used as a catchall platform, perfect for eliminating excess chicken, shrimp, scallops, etc. Nothing wrong with any of those combinations, but it is not exactly sophisticate cuisine (more like a staff meal).

Fourth Course

Creme Fraiche Sorbet with Shizo Syrup, Blueberries

Impression

A great twist on a simple concept. The creme fraiche was subtle but unmistakable and really an interesting idea for sorbet. Unfortunately I mistakenly believed this was an exceptional palette cleanser instead of my dessert course, which speaks to the size of the serving. When that's the only dessert, I expect two scoops instead of just one.

My final bill, before gratuity, was about $44 which I thought was, considering four courses with wine, exceptionally inexpensive. I spoke with the manager and he said their aim was to be more of a 'once a week' place as opposed to 'special occasions only' and I think the price reflects that. I only cautioned that being a casual restaurant does not equate to a lack of focus and excellence by the staff. Closing thoughts:

1. This place is not used to serving a tasting menu. Dishes were over and under sized.

2. Wine list is average.

3. Service was friendly but somewhat amateurish. When being served, the thumb should not come across the plate's rim, it should run along it. Otherwise there is a big finger print and it can appear like the server is sticking their finger in your food.

4. Their prices also reflect their lack of attention to detail. I sat down at a wobbly table and the silverware was spotted; this is basic prep work that was not done. It's the little things that distinguish fine dining experiences.

Service: 5 out of 10

Kitchen: 6 out of 10

Atmosphere: 6 out of 10

Note on rating scale: 10 = perfect, 5 = satisfactory, 0 = intolerable

Dining in Charleston: Charleston Grill

Last week I completed a five night dining spree in Charleston, South Carolina. I worked in fine dining from coast to coast and I will be presenting my impressions of each experience.

Charleston Grill

Executive Chef: Michelle Weaver (her mentor, her rise)

First, it was Mother's Day and I appreciate that they served more than just brunch. They presented their regular menu, one with four concepts (which can be viewed here). I decided to do a tasting, selecting three dishes and leaving the rest to chef's discretion. They offered three levels of wine pairings and I selected the mid range, which ran $45.

In a brief aside, they offer a live jazz trio Monday through Saturday and a duo on Sunday, which I really enjoyed. Live unobtrusive music offers a richer dining experience. And it is the experience we are after when we see $40 entrees. The difference is service, atmosphere, and attention to detail (and of course, exceptional food).

I got a warm greeting when entering and, when seated, my hostess offered to lay my napkin across my lap (very classy). The silverware and glasses were all spot-free and well polished. The staff's gentleman were clad in white and black with neckties and the ladies in all black. At the menu's listed prices, I'd like to see jackets, but that's just me. I settled in with the dark wood paneling and classic interior, listening to a live guitar and fiddle combo.

Amuse

Goat Cheese Mousse with Blackberry and Blueberry Compote, Shallots, Tarragon on Crostini.
Impression

The crostini was cut too thin to support the mousse but still added enough crunch to a very flavorful mousse. The compote added just the right sweetness. We're definitely off to a good start with that bite.

First Course (my choice)

Nantucket Bay Scallop Ceviche with Yuzu, Vanilla, Apple, Mint, Thai Basil paired with a Riesling from Luxembourg

Impression

They did not serve me Nantucket Bay scallops. That may be a small point (the diver scallops were perfectly fine) but I expect to be served what I order. The yuzu made the scallops pop while the subtle seasoning made for a nice medley of flavor. It was served in a shallow trough which I found somewhat unbecoming. I got the impression my server was confused on the exact marinade and seemed anxious to get away from the table when serving the wine (a sure sign she was uncomfortable talking about it). Otherwise it was a very lovely dish, complimented nicely by a pairing with similar notes. I was pleased.

Second Course (my choice)

Charleston Grill Crab Cake with Creek Shrimp, Lime Tomato Dill Vinaigrette paired with Millton Chenin Blanc 2006

Impression

Now this is fine Charleston cuisine. The crab cake was perfectly and delicately cooked and the shrimp were tender and delicious. The vinaigrette was very mild, befitting the dish, though I could have liked it a bit more aggressiveness. The dish was served with halved red and yellow cherry tomatoes; this seemed more aesthetic than additive. The tomatoes were mushy and seriously detracted from the other components when eaten together. The pairing seemed more generic than well thought out, but it didn't hinder an excellent dish.

Third Course

Foie Gras and Waffles with a Huckleberry Port Reduction, Maple Whipped Cream paired with Bussola Recioto 2003

Impression

The Bussola is a sweet wine with a big nose and its decadence complimented my favorite indulgence, foie gras. The presentation was clever as the waffles added great texture to contrast with the rich foie. The maple whipped cream was tasted more like regular whipped cream to me and it dissolved rather abruptly so I didn't have much time to taste it. The berry compote could have been a bit sweeter (though the port took care of the sweet finish) and completed the breakfast spin. Overall, one of the more playful and delicious presentations of a fine dining staple.

Fourth Course (my choice)

Duck Confit and Dirty Grits with Baby Turnips, Bacon Sage Gravy paired with 2007 Vernas

Impression

The last thing I expected from duck confit is tough meat. The turnips added a nice earthiness and the grits were excellent and classic. This is potentially a signature Southern dish with some fine tuning and a bit more flavor. Wine pairing was nice and light, contrasting with the heaviness of the dish. It was without overly aggressive fruit which would have detracted from the great earthy flavors in the dish. A nice pairing, I just wish that meat wasn't stringy. (Unfortunately, this would not be the last time I was served poorly cooked duck in Charleston, but that's for another time...)

Fifth Course

Grilled Aged Lamb Chops with Spring Vegetables, Lemon Rosemary Jus with 2001 Brunello di Montalcino

Impression

It was a beautiful, think chop with crisp, colorful seasonal vegetables and a flavorful rosemary reduction. The chop was perhaps a bit fatty and the reduction was intense, possibly overpowering with a heavy hand, but everything worked well together. This is more of an entree dish than tasting menu (especially as you cruise into your fifth course) but I was glad to eat it. Overall, it was really just classic American cuisine, well cooked and well seasoned.

Pre-Dessert

Coconut Cake with Cream Cheese Icing and Pineapple Salsa

Impression

Explosion of flavor and I kind of wish it was a full portion. Brief aside, I'm getting a little tired of seeing diced fruit called salsa.

First Dessert

Strawberry Mousse, Lemon Ginger Broth, Poppy and Sesame Seed Tuile with a white carbonated Italian dessert wine

Impression

The presentation, highlighted by a strawberry gelee, was probably better than the flavor. The mousse was fine with the lemon, cumin broth. The tuile added some nice texture. It was an inoffensive, pedestrian kind of dessert you'd suggest to someone who'd already ordered a green salad and chicken. Nothing wrong with the dessert, but nothing to write home about either.

Second Dessert

Chocolate Trio: Bittersweet Chocolate Cake, Milk Chocolate Ganache, White Chocolate Ice Cream Sandwich with Moon Winery Port

Impression

The cake was nothing special, a small chocolate cake like we've all eaten a million times. Make it a molten chocolate cake and at least there would be some defining aspect. The ganache was great; really rich and smooth. I could have used two more scoops of it. The mini ice cream sandwich was certainly big enough to require a cut, but too hard. I then picked it up to find chocolate sauce holding it in place on the plate, which then transferred onto my fingers. A simple problem rectified by thawing the sandwich a bit or 86ing the sauce underneath. Either way, that's for a chef to worry about before my fingers are sticky.

My meal was finished with some petifores and a bill totalling about $150, not including gratuity. My last thoughts are these:

1. The back waiters are under trained and don't know enough about the food they are serving. They should know everything on the plate and how it was prepared.

2. The wine list is solid and the sommelier was impressive, with an eye for appropriateness over selling price.

3. There was some table side saucing but that's almost a cop out. I like some sort of table side service, not just pouring sauce.

4. Of the three choices I made, I thought two didn't live up to my expectations, mainly for technical reasons.

5. With the level of food and service I received, I think the price was about right. Despite my nitpicking, the service, food and wine were definitely upper echelon. I recommend this experience.

Service: 7 out of 10

Kitchen: 8 out of 10

Pastry: 6 out of 10

Atmosphere: 8 out of 10

Note: I decided against stars because they seem to be eternally increasing. 3 star Michelin is much different from some '5 star' corner pub with a wing special.