Dining in Charleston: Cru Cafe

Cru Cafe
Executive Chef: John Zucker (info)

With food ranked by review sites rivaling the best in Charleston, my visit to Cru Cafe had me excited. It resides in what appears to be a former residence and has the feel of a mom and pop country-inn eatery. The dining room is small and a full room feels more like a family gathering than a private evening. Some table setting issues added to the homely feel (not in a good way); candles were unlit, silverware was not polished, no butter knife or wine glass. They did/do not offer a tasting menu so I ordered a bottle of 2005 Lincourt Syrah from Santa Barbara to accompany my meal and dove in...

First Course
Sausage Gumbo
Impression
Not quite New Orleans, but damn good and a testament to low country cooking. The gumbo had depth of flavor and revealed beautiful color after dug into with a spoon. I say after because when served, the dark roux dominated my eye and a bit of micro green or parsley garnish would have gone a long way. In any case, the flavor was definitely there and I really enjoyed this Southern specialty. It was one of those dishes you unconsciously eat fast because it's so good.

Second Course
Grilled Swordfish over Four Cheese Grits with Shoe-String Fried Onions
Impression
I really thought I was going to hit a home run when I ordered this entree. Every element of this dish is something I really enjoy eating. Despite being without the silverware needed (rather, any whatsoever) when it was served, I was still eager upon its arrival. Unfortunately the dish failed in conception and execution, a lethal combination that ruined my plate. The fish was steamrolled by an overly heavy tazo and smoked ham gravy. The onions were cold and soggy; they seemed unnecessary due to poor execution but if they were crispy they would add some texture to the dish. The entire presentation lacked color, functionality or imagination. Fried onions over fish over grits is not exactly a picturesque scene. The grits were good but I was really, really disappointed with this course.

Third Course
Cheesecake with Fresh Strawberries, Strawberry Syrup
Impression
After a hit and a miss with Southern dishes, I decided to measure their cheesecake against my infinite encounters (I reside in the NY/NJ metro area). Side note: the candle on my table was finally lit. The cake was definitely lighter than what I'm used to, but that was not a bad thing. Though not as rich, the texture was still amazingly creamy. The strawberries were an appropriately simple adjunct though, again, a little garnish would have helped. Aside from the elbow in my face when it was served, I thought this well known dessert outperformed. I should have skipped the espresso I had with it, which was served with an improperly cut lemon twist.

The food was about $45 and wine was just over $40. Not cheap, but not absurd. I definitely want better service at that price though. Closing thoughts:
1. The waitress was in (ugh) shorts and a t-shirt. The back waiter was also in shorts. Unless I'm at Hooters, I don't want to be served by anyone in shorts.
2. There was a simple lack of color and presentation (at least there wasn't any pointless deconstruction).
3. Whether it's polishing the silverware or lighting the candles, the prep work that distinguishes restaurants from one another, isn't getting done at Cru Cafe.
4. My waitress was clearly skilled, well versed in the cuisine and perfect in her wine service. But...
5. For such a small place, the entire staff was surprisingly inattentive to detail. Water glasses went unfilled, food was served with too many thumbs but without silverware, bread stayed on the table through dessert, and on and on.

If your a local, you may enjoy frequenting this humble joint. If your into a gratuitous, hearty style of service, this might be your restaurant (I prefer polished, highly attentive service). The food might have won the day if my entree was just properly cooked. Locals who fall into the previously mention categories should try Cru Cafe; out of town visitors can definitely find a better experience.

Service: 2 out of 10
Kitchen: 4 out of 10
Atmosphere: 5 out of 10